Trip Summary

We’ve arrived in Persia’s old capital city Isfahan (اصفهان‎) after cycling along the Caspian sea and heading down south. We made it on December 12th after cycling a further 1535 km. On this route we saw many beautiful mosques, oranges, snow, and the police station.

我们已经抵达波斯的旧首都伊斯法罕。我们沿着里海沿着南部骑行。 12月12日,我们在骑行1535公里后抵达。在这条路上,我们看到了许多美丽的清真寺,橘子,雪和警察局。

Heading south for some warmer weather

Capsian Sea 凯恩海

We looked forward to several days cycling along the sea. However when we arrived things weren’t as we expected. Big hotels, malls and restaurants all took their share of the seaviews. The road we cycled on barely gave us any view of the sea. Trying to get to the water was a mission itself if you aren’t willing to pay. Needless to say, our time along the Caspian sea was short, uneventful and wet.

我们期待在海边骑自行车几天。然而,当我们到达时,事情并不像我们预期的那样大酒店,商场和餐馆都占据了海景。我们骑车的路几乎没有给我们任何海景。如果你不愿意付钱,试图下水是一项任务。毋庸置疑,我们沿着里海的时间短暂,平静而潮湿。

Red/white/green represents the Iranian flag

The quickest way for the Tehranis to get to the Caspian Sea is by the Chalus-Tehran road. We read online it is a beautiful mountain pass, slightly tight on space at times, but still worth the climb. We really enjoyed the four day journey, getting into the clouds, camping by the snow and building a small Christmas tree.

Chalus-Tehran路是德黑兰人到达海的最快捷方式。我们在网上看到它是一个美丽的山口,有时在空间上略显紧张,但仍值得攀登。我们真的很享受四天的旅程,穿越云层,在雪地上露营,建造一棵小圣诞树。

Portugal and Naranghee

In Farsi, orange is “portugal” and mandarin is “naranjee”. To add to the confusion, “naranja” in Spanish means orange.

在波斯语中,橙色是“葡萄牙”,而普通话是“naranjee”。更令人困惑的是,西班牙语中的“naranja”意为橙色。

The area around the sea was full of orange and mandarin orchards. It was only a matter of time before our bags got filled with them from the generosity of the locals. We had two bags full by the time we arrived in Tonekabon.

海边的地区到处都是橘子和柑橘园。我们的行李从当地人的慷慨中充满了它们只是时间问题。当我们到达Tonekabon时,我们已经装满了两个袋子。

Kind orchard worker filled our bags with fruit

Our Tonekabon host from CouchSurfing also had an orange orchard. We essentially drank orange juice every morning we stayed with him. We had such a great time with our host Alireza that he has joined us going.

我们来自CouchSurfing的Tonekabon主人也有一个橙色的果园。我们每天早上都和他一起喝橙汁。我们和我们的主人Alireza度过了一段美好的时光,他和我们一起去了。

Police Escort 警察护送

In Tehran we found out someone had been in our bags and taken our money. The stolen amount was exactly $1000 US dollars, 300,000 rials, and several notes from Tajikistan and Uzbekistan (which we kept as souvenirs). It is a lot of money because we had to carry enough for 3 months in Iran.

在德黑兰,我们发现有人在我们的包里拿走了我们的钱。被盗的金额正好是1000美元,30万里亚尔,以及来自塔吉克斯坦和乌兹别克斯坦的几张纸条(我们作为纪念品保存)。这是一笔很多钱,因为我们必须在伊朗运送足够的3个月。

Why carry so much cash? The sanctions on Iran meant our credit card don’t work here. It’ll be Christmas and New Year soon so we thought to bring enough to treat ourselves.

为什么要带这么多现金?对伊朗的制裁意味着我们的信用卡在这里不起作用。这将是圣诞节和新年很快,所以我们想要带足够自己来对待自己。

Our host called the local police station and a policemen came to write a report. Later they gave us a ride to the station. Through the language help of our host, the police said “cash ownership is hard to prove, unlike a passport which has a name on it”. So unfortunately they won’t pursue this further.

我们的主人打电话给当地派出所,一名警察前来报案。后来他们给我们搭车去了车站。通过我们主人的语言帮助,警方说“现金所有权难以证明,不像护照上有名字”。所以不幸的是,他们不会进一步追求这一点。

Coincidentally, a fortnight earlier, someone shared a message on the Cycling WhatsApp group. 巧合的是,两周前,有人在Cycling WhatsApp小组上分享了一条消息。

This is a WARNING to any cyclist or traveler currently in China.
South Korean cyclist Jeongung Park, or John which he calls himself to westerners, was arrested in Karimabad northern Pakistan in late October and was resently released.

His exact footprint was found in a room where a traveler was stolen 400 Usd. He admitted to the theft, the money was returned but when two other South Korean travelers reported money missing in the same guesthouse police were called in. In John’s luggage currency from 17 different countries were found valued over 15.000 dollars. He was released after 10 days due to his victims unwillingness to press charges. After finding this out I have heard from multiple people, cyclists and backpackers, Korean and non Korean alike who lost money while in the company of John.

I’m writing you this because I strongly suspect John funds his now 2.5 year long trip on stolen money from other backpackers and cyclists. I met John on multiple occasions and until this came up i considered him a friend. (He never stole anything from me though, but then again I always carry my cash on me)
John travels quite luxuriously for a bicyclist after only having worked a short time in South Korea. What’s worse is that he is planning on continuing cycling for another 7 YEARS. Going to every continent and will most likely continue to steal from people he meets along the way.

I met John in Pakistan some time before his arrest and his near plans, at least what he told me then are western China until February, then Kazakhstan, Pamir highway, Iran, Caucasus, Turkey and reaching Europe in fall.

John is very quiet and humble. He absolutely does not come of as a thief or someone you couldn’t place your trust in. He is about 1.80cm, tattoos on his arms and back and speaks conversationable but far from fluent English.

Trust is a sacred thing in any circumstance. But especially while traveling we rely on it. If people like John continues to take advantage of it, I feel like I have to do everything in my power to stop him.

Be safe everyone.


这是对目前在中国的任何骑车者或旅行者的警告。
韩国自行车运动员Jeongung Park,或称他自称为西方人的约翰,于10月底在巴基斯坦北部的卡里马巴德被捕,并被慷慨解囊。

他确切的足迹是在一个旅行者被偷走400美元的房间里发现的。他承认盗窃,这笔钱被退还,但当另外两名韩国旅客报告在同一家宾馆失踪的钱时,警方也被叫进来。约翰来自17个不同国家的行李箱货币被发现价值超过15000美元。由于受害者不愿提出指控,他在10天后被释放。在发现这一点后,我听到了许多人,骑自行车者和背包客,韩国人和非韩国人在约翰的陪伴下赔钱。

我写信给你是因为我强烈怀疑约翰资助了他现在2。5年的旅行,因为其他背包客和骑自行车者的钱被偷走了。我多次见过约翰,直到这出现,我认为他是朋友。 (他从来没有从我这里偷过任何东西,但是我再一次把钱带到我身上)
在韩国工作很短的时间后,约翰为一名骑自行车的人旅行非常豪华。更糟糕的是,他计划继续骑自行车7年。前往各大洲,很可能会继续从他遇到的人那里偷走。

我在巴基斯坦遇到约翰之前的一段时间和他的近期计划,至少他告诉我的是中国西部直到二月,然后是哈萨克斯坦,帕米尔高速公路,伊朗,高加索,土耳其和秋天到达欧洲。

约翰很安静,很谦虚。他绝对不是作为一个小偷或你无法信任的人。他身高约1.80厘米,手臂和背部都有纹身,说话可谈,但英语不太流利。

在任何情况下,信任都是神圣的。但特别是在旅行时我们依赖它。如果像约翰这样的人继续利用它,我觉得我必须竭尽全力阻止他。

大家注意安全。

We were in Bandar-e-gaz at that time so Pheng counted the money and separated $1000 into its own pile, but left it together with the passport. Obviously we forgot about the “all in one basket” phrase. We’ve learned our lesson and will be a bit more careful from now on. We hope that reporting it will let us get over it.

当时我们在Bandar-e-gaz,所以Pheng计算了这笔钱并将1000美元分成了自己的一堆,但是把它与护照一起留下了。显然我们忘记了“一气呵成”这句话。我们已经吸取了教训,从现在开始会更加小心。我们希望报道它能让我们克服它。

Our Tehran friends took us up to this view to cheer us up

Newcomer 新手

We couldn’t finish this post in such a sad tone. Alireza from Tonekabon, has joined us since Qom. We’ll ride together for the rest of Iran and then to Turkey. We stayed with Alireza for almost a week in Tonekabon before climbing up the Chalus-Tehran pass. For the first time we’ve inspired someone to join us!

我们无法用这种悲伤的语调完成这篇文章。来自Tonekabon的Alireza自Qom开始加入我们。我们将一起乘坐伊朗其他地区,然后再到土耳其。在爬上Chalus-Tehran通道之前,我们在Tonekabon与Alireza待了将近一个星期。我们第一次鼓励有人加入我们!

Alireza left, Matt right

Alireza took us to the most beautiful Persian cafe (in Kashan)

Alireza is a very adventurous, kind and thoughtful person. He’s helped organize most of the accommodation for us. Through the Cycling Federation of Iran, he’s registered our names so we can legally go on Freeways. Being Iranian, he’s also very generous, paying for every meal we’ve eaten together, regardless of how hard we offer to pay.

Alireza是一个非常冒险,善良和有思想的人。他帮助我们组织了大部分住宿。通过伊朗自行车联合会,他已经注册了我们的名字,因此我们可以合法地进入高速公路。作为伊朗人,他也非常慷慨,支付我们一起吃的每顿饭,无论我们付出多少努力。


What’s next? 下一步

With what is left of our Iranian budget, we are going to the south of Iran to celebrate Christmas, New Years and Pheng’s 28th birthday. It will be a low-key celebration, but we’re not going to let this petty crime ruin our trip.

After that, depending on how cold the north of Iran is, we may go to Oman for a month to wait out the winter.

凭借我们的伊朗预算,我们将前往伊朗南部庆祝圣诞节,新年和Pheng的28岁生日。这将是一个低调的庆祝活动,但我们不会让这个小小的罪行毁了我们的旅行。

在那之后,根据伊朗北部的寒冷程度,我们可能会去阿曼一个月等待冬天。