Wednesday 12th, December 2018

We arrived in Isfahan after lunch with plenty of time to look around and get to our accommodation. Unfortunately we had no actual location to get to due to some misunderstanding with our Iranian friend. Our friend Alireza was not with us because he had to take a bus from Kashan to Isfahan due to knee pain. He gave our number to a friend in Isfahan who could host us. That friend never called.

It took us no time to reach the heart of the city so we decided to look around the parks and bridges. The city is famous for it’s iconic brick bridges which is now pedestrian only. We recognized one of the bridge which many of our fellow cyclist shared on their Instagram. Still that friend hadn’t call so we got into a little panic and started sending request through CouchSurfing and WarmShower for hosts under short notice.

我们午餐后到达伊斯法罕,有充足的时间环顾四周,到达我们的住处。不幸的是,由于与伊朗朋友的一些误解,我们没有实际的位置。我们的朋友Alireza不和我们在一起,因为他因膝盖疼痛而不得不乘坐从卡山到伊斯法罕的公共汽车。他把我们的号码给了伊斯法罕的一位朋友,他可以接待我们。那个朋友从来没有叫过。

我们没有时间到达城市的中心,所以我们决定环顾公园和桥梁。这座城市以其标志性的砖桥而闻名,现在只是步行街。我们认识到我们的许多骑车人在他们的Instagram上共享的桥梁之一。仍然那个朋友没有打电话,所以我们陷入了一点恐慌并开始通过CouchSurfing和WarmShower在短时间内向主机发送请求。

Khaju Bridge

While the locals were enjoying promenade and passing us, we were stuck on our screen searching for a host. A gentleman with his wife walked by us and asked if we were tourists (of course we were! However, that’s a good conversation starter). We got into the usual conversation of where we are from, where we’ve cycled, how long, etc. Then he asked where we were staying tonight. We explained the situation and he kindly offered his home in another city which was 15 km out if we have absolutely nowhere else to go. It was something we hoped to happen while in Iran for a friendly stranger to host us, and it surely did. That friend of Alireza never called so we set out and arrived at our host in Khomeini Shahr by 7 pm in the dark. We felt so annoyed and angry on the way we stopped at a bakery and bought some sweets to cheer up a bit.

We arrived at Thor’s home – a nickname he picked himself. His son Sorush let us in. He was home alone but his parents arrived a little later. They had a modest but warm home. Any home was good enough at this stage of our travel.

当地人正在享受散步并经过我们时,我们被困在我们的屏幕上寻找主人。一位绅士和他的妻子走过我们,问我们是不是游客(当然我们是!但是,这是一个很好的对话启动者)。我们进入了通常的对话,我们来自哪里,我们在哪里骑车,多久等等。然后他问我们今晚住在哪里。我们解释了这种情况,如果我们完全无处可去的话,他会在15公里外的另一个城市提供他的家。这是我们希望在伊朗为一个友善的陌生人接待我们时所发生的事情,而且肯定是这样做的。 Alireza的那位朋友从未打过电话,所以我们出发并在晚上7点到达霍梅尼沙尔的主人。我们感到非常生气和愤怒我们在一家面包店停下来的路上买了一些糖果来振作起来。

我们到达了Thor的家 – 这是他自己挑选的绰号。他的儿子索罗什让我们进去。他独自在家,但他的父母到了一会儿。他们有一个温和但温暖的家。在我们旅行的这个阶段,任何一个家都很好。

Thursday 13th, December 2018

Thor helped us plan a day trip to go see some of the attractions. We saved it on our map and excitedly hopped on our bikes.

It took us half an hour and we arrived at the first attraction: the Temple of Fire. This temple is up on a hill and there’s no way to get up unless you pay for a ticket. We told the ticket seller our story about the stolen money, but they couldn’t let us in for free. In the end we valued 2 days of food more than visiting an attraction and left.

Thor帮助我们计划一日游,去看看一些景点。我们把它保存在我们的地图上,兴奋地跳上了我们的自行车。我们花了半个小时才到达第一个景点:火神庙。这座寺庙在山上,除非你买票,否则没办法起床。我们告诉售票员关于偷来的钱的故事,但他们不能让我们免费进入。最后,我们估计2天的食物比参观一个景点更多,并且离开。

Next on the list was the mosque famous for it’s moving minarets… both of them. A cycleway between the Fire Temple and Monar Jonban made it pleasant to cycle through. Oh no, once again there’s a ticket to get in. We repeated the same story but the same outcome. This time it wasn’t worth 3 days of food for us.

A little bit frustrated, we go to the cathedral which shouldn’t cost right? We crossed the city to find out indeed it does cost. Attempt three didn’t work, not even a discount was offered. We walked away feeling so low that our day so far had been “visiting attractions” but not actually seeing it.

名单上的下一个是以其移动的尖塔而闻名的清真寺……两者都是。 Fire Temple和Monar Jonban之间的自行车道令人愉快。哦不,再次有一张进入的门票。我们重复了相同的故事,但结果相同。这次我们不值得3天的食物。

有点沮丧,我们去大教堂,不应该花费成本吗?我们越过这座城市,确实发现它确实需要成本。尝试三个没有工作,甚至没有提供折扣。我们走开的感觉很低。我们这一天到目前为止一直是“参观景点”,但实际上并没有看到它。

Naqsh-e Jahan Square

One last place for the day before we call it quits: the Naqsh-e Jahan Square. A few more pedals were pushed and we entered the square. It was grand, so huge that we walked around it instead of cycling through so we can see and soak up everything. We knew not to buy anything here because it’s a touristy spot. We sat down on a bench to rest a bit and share photos on Instagram for our followers back home.

A gentleman on a bicycle stopped by us and introduced himself as a tour guide. A well rehearsed advertisement came out of his mouth and we politely waited for him to let us talk. We told him we had our money stolen and were very poor in Iran. Almost immediately he said “nice to meet you” and left. That was quite easy, usually they would be quite sticky.

We cycled home and the sadness hit us really hard. Matt cried most of the way home. It’s been something we tried to deal with but also keep a cool and relaxed attitude about. Stressing over it won’t bring the money back. Our inability to buy tickets today made us feel at the bottom of the jar.

我们称之为前一天的最后一个地方:Naqsh-e Jahan Square。推了几个踏板,我们进入了广场。这是伟大的,如此巨大,我们走来走去,而不是骑自行车,所以我们可以看到和吸收一切。我们知道不要在这里买任何东西,因为它是一个旅游景点。我们坐在长凳上休息了一下,并在Instagram上分享照片,让我们的追随者回到家中。

一位骑自行车的绅士停在我们身边并自我介绍为导游。一张精心排练的广告从他嘴里出来,我们礼貌地等着他让我们说话。我们告诉他我们的钱被偷了,在伊朗很穷。几乎立即他说“很高兴认识你”并离开。这很容易,通常它们会很粘。

我们骑车回家了,悲伤让我们很难受。Matt哭了大部分回家的路上。这是我们试图处理的事情,但也保持冷静和放松的态度。强调它不会带来回报。我们今天无法购买门票让我们感觉到罐子的底部。

Friday 14th, December 2018

It is finally Friday! The weekend day in Iran is Friday. Thor drove us and the family into the city to drop off Sorush for violin practice. We went to a park for a morning tea picnic. It was very busy but we found a carpark in no time. Soon after, we were like an Iranian family drinking tea and chatting away on the picnic mat. We felt belonged in Thor’s family.

Pheng takes a sneaky shot of Thor and Marzieh

A friend we met 3 weeks ago in Bandar-e-gaz arranged to take us out for the afternoon. Mohammed had been very insistent earlier that we don’t eat Biryani while in Isfahan. So what’s for lunch was sorted. First he took us to Mt Sofe for a view of the city. The smog blanketed the city so we thought it’ll be a good opportunity to post about the pollution and mentioned how cheap petrol was here.

终于星期五了!伊朗的周末是星期五。 Thor驱使我们和家人进入城市,让Sorush离开小提琴练习。我们去了一个公园享用早茶。这是非常繁忙,但我们很快找到了一个停车场。不久之后,我们就像一个伊朗家庭喝茶,在野餐垫上聊天。我们觉得属于Thor的家庭。

我们3周前在Bandar-e-gaz遇到的一位朋友安排下午带我们出去。穆罕默德早些时候非常坚持我们在伊斯法罕期间不吃Biryani。那午餐是什么排序。首先,他带我们去了索菲山,欣赏这座城市。烟雾覆盖了整个城市,所以我们认为这是一个发布污染的好机会并提到汽油是如何便宜的。

After a good climb we set off to get lunch in the city centre. The restaurant was busy with a line of 20 people. We patiently waited and took photos like happy snappy tourists. It must be part of the experience… like Ferg Burger in Queenstown.

经过一次良好的攀登,我们出发去市中心吃午餐。餐厅忙着20人。我们耐心地等待并拍照像快乐的活泼的游客。它必须是体验的一部分……就像皇后镇的Ferg Burger一样。

The meal came and it was delicious. We took more photos and thanked Mohammed for introducing us to a new food. Mohammed took us back home and we rested a bit, catching up on social media and checking if the rentals back home had any new tenants.

Thor took us to an aunty’s house for dinner. We were in for another treat: Gormeh sabsi (قورمه‌سبزی‎‎). Thor proudly told everyone about our trip and our Farsi skills. All the uncles and aunties had a rundown of the recent unfortunate event too. By now we just want to get over it and let it be a story and nothing more.

这顿饭来了,很美味。我们拍摄了更多照片,并感谢穆罕默德向我们介绍了一种新食物。穆罕默德把我们带回了家,我们休息了一下,赶上社交媒体,检查回家的租房是否有新房客。

Thor带我们到阿姨家吃饭。我们正在接受另一种享受:Gormeh sabsi(قورمهسبزی)。 Thor自豪地告诉大家我们的旅行和我们的波斯语技能。所有的叔叔和阿姨都对最近的不幸事件有所了解。到现在为止,我们只是想克服它,让它成为一个故事,仅此而已。

“Gormeh sabsi” on the fourth dish to the right

In the car on the way home we thanked Thor, Marzieh and son again for their hospitality. They said it had been an honour to host us. We are their family now. We told them on the first day we met them, if they hadn’t talk to us, we’d had nowhere to stay. Then they said when they first saw us, they noticed how sad we looked. We really were sad that day. It was sweet of them to help us when we were in such a dark moment.

在回家的路上,我们再次感谢Thor,Marzieh和儿子的热情好客。他们说我很荣幸能够接待我们。我们现在是他们的家人。我们在遇见他们的第一天告诉他们,如果他们没有跟我们说话,我们就无处可去了。然后他们说,当他们第一次看到我们时,他们注意到我们看起来多么悲伤那天我们真的很伤心。当我们在如此黑暗的时刻帮助我们时,他们是甜蜜的。

Saturday 15th, December 2018

We got up early and packed our bags ready for the next leg of the trip to Yazd. We gave big hugs to Thor and Marzieh shook our hands! Usually a women in Iran wouldn’t be able to do that with non related men. We left the city feeling a bit better than when we first arrived.

我们早早起床,准备好迎接亚兹德之行的下一站。我们给Thor和Marzieh大大的拥抱震动了我们的手!通常情况下,伊朗妇女无法与非相关男性这样做。我们离开这个城市的感觉比我们刚到的时候好一点。


If you have watched Inside Out you may recognise these as the Memory Orbs. We had a such an emotional rollercoaster of a time in Isfahan and it putting it into words didn’t feel adequate. Meeting Thor’s family really improved our experience in Isfahan.

如果您已观看Inside Out,您可能会将这些识别为Memory Orbs。我们在伊斯法罕有过一次如此情绪化的过山车,并且用言语表达并不合适。会见Thor的家人真的改善了我们在伊斯法罕的经历。

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